Papsura Peak Expedition
Manali
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24 Days
$2500.00
4.6
Manali
Expedition
Available
Tour Highlights
Altitude: 6451 m (21,165 ft)
Region: Parvati Valley, Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh
Grade: Extremely Difficult – Fully Technical
Duration: 22-26 days
Best Season: June – September (pre-monsoon) & September – October (post-monsoon)
Mountain Range: Pir Panjal Range, Great Himalayan Divide
About Papsura Peak
Papsura Peak, famously known as the "Peak of Evil," is the third‑highest mountain in the Kullu/Lahaul/Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh. Located at the convergence of the Pir Panjal range and the Great Himalayan Divide, Papsura towers over the remote Parvati Valley. Together with its twin peak Dharamsura (6,446 m / "Peak of Good"), these sibling summits are steeped in local folklore and are believed to mirror the ebb and flow of virtue and malevolence in the world.
First successfully climbed in 1967 by Geoffrey Hill and Colin Pritchard, Papsura has a reputation for being one of the most technical and rarely climbed Himalayan summits. Its long and potentially perilous approach, combined with steep ice slopes, mixed alpine terrain, and unpredictable weather, makes this expedition a true test of high‑altitude mountaineering skill. Many experienced climbers rate Papsura harder than several 7000 m objectives.
⚠️ Objective Hazards: This expedition involves steep icefields (70–80° sections), glacier travel on heavily crevassed terrain, high‑exposure ridge traverses, fixed rope ascents, and high‑altitude risks including AMS, HAPE, and HACE.
Expedition Highlights
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Conquer the legendary "Peak of Evil" – one of India's most technical and demanding Himalayan summits
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Embark on a remote expedition into the rugged Parvati Valley, a paradise of alpine forests, waterfalls, and high‑altitude pastures
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Climb the twin peaks of the region – Papsura (6451m) and Dharamsura (6446m) – both towering over the Tosh Valley
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Test your mountaineering skills on steep ice slopes, mixed alpine terrain, and exposed knife‑edge ridges
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Experience the unique culture and hospitality of the Tosh Valley, known for its charming villages and apple orchards
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Enjoy panoramic views of Dharamsura, Deo Tibba, Indrasan, and the Lahaul & Spiti valleys from the summit
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Detailed Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Delhi
Arrive at Delhi International Airport. Complete Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) formalities and expedition briefing. Overnight in a Delhi hotel.
Day 2: Delhi – Manali (2050 m)
Morning flight or drive to Manali (approx. 8-9 hours). Check into your hotel for a team briefing and gear check.
Day 3: Manali – Acclimatisation Day
Final preparations for the expedition. Visit the local administration and Forest Department for permit formalities. Light acclimatisation walk around Manali.
Day 4: Manali – Drive to Tosh Village (2400 m)
Scenic drive through Kullu and Parvati Valley, passing through Kasol and Manikaran (famous for its natural hot springs). Arrive at Tosh village, the last roadhead. Overnight in guesthouse.
Day 5: Tosh – Budhaban (3020 m)
Trek Duration: 4-5 hours · Trek Distance: Approx. 7 km
A steep climb through conifer forests and rolling green meadows to Budhaban. This site is a large grazing area offering stunning views of the Parvati Valley.
Day 6: Budhaban – Sharam Thach (3505 m)
Trek Duration: 5-7 hours · Trek Distance: Approx. 6 km
The trail ascends gently through pine and oak forests, crossing several mountain streams. Sharam Thach is a beautiful pasture surrounded by snow-capped peaks.
Day 7: Sharam Thach – Samsi Thach (3800 m – 4000 m)
Trek Duration: 4-5 hours · Trek Distance: Approx. 5 km
A gradual ascent into alpine terrain. As you gain height, the vegetation thins out and the views of Dharamsura and the Tosh Glacier become visible.
Day 8: Samsi Thach – Kuta Thach (Base Camp, ~4500 m)
Trek Duration: 5-6 hours · Trek Distance: Approx. 7 km
The approach crosses rocky moraine and the icy expanse of the Tosh Glacier. Kuta Thach serves as the expedition Base Camp, nestled at the base of the Tosh Glacier with direct views of Papsura and Dharamsura.
Days 9-10: Acclimatisation & Load Ferry at Base Camp
Rest and acclimatisation days at Base Camp. Short acclimatisation walks to higher vantage points. Loads are ferried to Camp 1 by high‑altitude porters to establish the route.
Day 11: Base Camp – Camp 1 (~5000 m – 5200 m)
Climb Duration: 5-6 hours
A steady ascent over snow and moraine to establish Camp 1. The terrain becomes steeper and requires roped movement.
Day 12: Acclimatisation Day at Camp 1
Mandatory rest and acclimatisation day. Route reconnaissance and planning for higher camps.
Day 13: Camp 1 – Camp 2 (~5500 m – 5600 m)
Climb Duration: 5-7 hours
A challenging climb involving steep snow slopes and technical sections. Fixed ropes may be installed on exposed sections.
Day 14: Rest & Acclimatisation Day at Camp 2
Crucial rest day for altitude adjustment. Practice fixed‑rope climbing techniques and review the summit plan.
Day 15: Camp 2 – Camp 3 (Summit Camp, ~5900 m – 6000 m)
Climb Duration: 5-6 hours
This is the final camp before the summit push. The route follows mixed rock and ice terrain up to a col offering breathtaking views of the Bara Shigri Glacier.
Day 16: Summit Papsura (6451 m) – Descent to Camp 2/3
Climb Duration: 10-12 hours (to summit & back)
Pre‑dawn start for the summit attempt. The climb involves steep icefields (up to 70–80°), fixed rope sections, and a narrow, exposed summit ridge. Reach the top of the legendary "Peak of Evil" – sunrise views over the Kullu and Spiti valleys and surrounding peaks are unparalleled. After celebrating, carefully descend to Camp 2 or 3.
Day 17: Buffer Day for Summit / Weather Delay
Reserve day in case of adverse weather or for a second summit attempt.
Day 18: Descent – Camp 2/3 to Base Camp
Descent time: 6-8 hours
Break down the high camps and descend through the entire route back to Base Camp.
Day 19: Base Camp – Kuta Thach to Samsi Thach
Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
Retrace the approach trek through the Tosh Glacier and alpine pastures to Samsi Thach.
Day 20: Samsi Thach – Budhaban / Tosh Village
Trek Duration: 6-7 hours
Descend through the forests and meadows back to Tosh village. Celebrate the expedition's success overnight in Tosh or drive back to Manali.
Day 21: Tosh – Manali
Drive back to Manali via Kasol and Kullu. Check into your hotel for a well‑earned rest, celebratory dinner, and a hot bath.
Day 22: Manali – Delhi / Departure
Transfer to the airport for your morning flight back to Delhi. Attend the de‑briefing at the IMF office to complete formalities before your journey home.
Note: The itinerary may change depending on weather, road conditions, the physical fitness of participants, or any unforeseen circumstances. Reserve days are built into the schedule for adverse weather and altitude acclimatisation.
Fitness & Experience Requirements
This expedition is suitable only for advanced mountaineers.
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Technical Experience Required: Previous 6000 m+ technical peak climbing experience is mandatory. Experience with glacier travel, fixed rope ascents, steep ice climbing, and mixed alpine terrain is essential.
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Fitness Standards: Excellent cardiovascular health and sustained endurance for 10-12 hour summit days carrying 15-20 kg loads over steep terrain.
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Acclimatisation: Previous altitude exposure above 5000 m is highly recommended.
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Medical Fitness: Climbers must be free from chronic heart, lung, or joint issues and provide a pre‑expedition medical fitness certificate.
⚠️ Not suitable for first‑time trekkers or beginners. Only attempt with a professional expedition operator and certified high‑altitude guides.
What's Included
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All necessary permits: Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF), forest, wildlife, and state government fees
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Accommodation: Hotel (Manali & Delhi) on sharing basis + all camping on the mountain
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Meals: All meals during the trek and expedition (Indian, Chinese, Continental), as well as breakfast at hotels
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Professional Team: Certified high‑altitude mountaineering guide(s), skilled local route guides, experienced head chef, kitchen helpers, and a dedicated Base Camp Manager
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High‑Altitude Crew: Porters/HAF to ferry loads, set up high camps, and fix ropes
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Group Camping Equipment: High‑altitude dome tents, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, camping mattresses, stools
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Group Climbing Equipment: Fixed ropes, ice screws, snow bars, and other needed group gear
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Basic First Aid Kit: Oxygen cylinder, portable altitude chamber (PAC/Gamow bag), blood pressure monitor, pulse oximeter, complete medical kit
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Transportation: All land transfers as per the itinerary (Manali–Tosh roadhead and return)
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Porters/Mules: For carrying central expedition equipment (rations, group tents, cooking gear)
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Expedition Completion Certificate
What's Excluded
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International & Domestic Airfare
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Travel / Rescue / Medical Insurance (mandatory – must cover high‑altitude mountaineering, emergency evacuation, and helicopter rescue; please ensure you have suitable cover)
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Personal Mountaineering Gear (your own boots, crampons, harness, helmet, ice axe, etc.)
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Personal Luggage Porters for carrying your personal backpack
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Any expenses of a personal nature (phone calls, laundry, charges for cameras/video, etc.)
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DME or Evacuation Costs: Emergency evacuation, helicopter rescue, ambulance, and hospitalisation expenses are not covered
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Tips & Gratuities for guides, cooks, porters, and support staff
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Meals during road journeys (Day 1/2/21-22 lunch/dinner unless specified)
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Costs arising from delays or circumstances beyond our control (weather, roadblocks, medical issues, etc.)
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